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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.